A millennial citadel-museum, located at 330 km from Bucharest (approx. 5 h by car) and 35 km north of Burgas, in the region with the same name (Burgas), Nessebar is among the oldest cities in Europe.
The settlement was founded by the Thracian king Melsa (71 BC), who named it Melsebria ('city of Melsa'). The town was successively occupied by Greek, Roman and Byzantine settlers, who renamed it Mesemvria, or Mesembria. The present name is the result of phonetic transformations and has been accepted since 1934. In 1956, it was declared a reserve of urban architecture and archaeology of national importance, and 27 years later (in 1983) it was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The history of the fortress begins in 3200-3000 BC, in the Copper Age. The ancient city grew over an area twice as large as it is today, parts of walls being found underwater, at 80 m from the shore. The old city is 850 m long and 350 m wide and it is separated from the new city by a 1 km long isthmus.
Over the centuries, successive populations have built around 40 churches, Nessebar being considered the town with the most churches per population. More than half of these are renovated or turned into museums. The most representative cultural establishments on the territory of the Old Town are: the museums of archaeology and ethnography; St Stephen's Church (with frescoes from the 11th-17th centuries); the Old Metropolitan Church (5th century), St Sophia which is built on the ruins of the ancient Temple of Apollo; the Kraymorska Basilica (Eleusa); the Church of Christ Pantocrator in the center of the island (12th-14th centuries); the Church of St Mother of God (1884).
The most beautiful and well-preserved murals dating from the 14th-18th century enrich the interior of the New Metropolitan St. Stephen's, a three-nave basilica. This also houses an archpriest's throne and an iconostasis, both carved in wood by Renaissance craftsmen.
As for the population, it should be noted that there have always been changes in its structure, from a majority Greek population to a majority of Slavs and Bulgarians. A remarkable development of the city took place during the reign of the Bulgarian King John Alexander (1331-1371), who encouraged literature, art, architecture and constructions. This made the city to prosper. Inevitably, it came to be coveted and conquered, although its wealthy inhabitants offered a great deal of money to be free. This until its final conquest for nearly 5 centuries by the Ottomans in 1453. At the beginning of the Ottoman rule, the city suffered looses and destruction, stagnating in development, forcing the enslaved population to gradually adapt, relying mainly on the maritime trade.
The town was revived during the Renaissance (18th-19th centuries). Thus, the poor fishermen cottages were gradually replaced by large, beautiful buildings, true monuments of the Bulgarian Renaissance architecture. These form the so-called urban houses on the Black Sea coast, adapted to the local climate and way of life: their ground floor is made of stone, with one or two levels or two outside exits, built of wood and rest on solid wooden beams. In the basement, on the ground floor or in separate outbuildings are cellars, wine stores, spaces where fish are dried, or where fishermen repair their nets. Strong winds did not allow open verandas upstairs, that were common in Greece. Typical houses of Nessebar feature the so-called "Chardak", an enclosed veranda. About 60 houses have been preserved or renovated in this architectural style.
Nessebar is has three windmills from the same late Renaissance period, which coincided with an economic revival and the emergence of wealthy guilds of craftsmen and merchants.
Fishing has always been a basic occupation of the inhabitants; women made nets and men fished with large, specific boats called "Alaman". Another traditional occupation was viticulture, each house having its own wine cellar.
Tourism developed in the twenties, with the construction of holiday homes for wealthy families. After 1970 most of the small family businesses that are present today had developed, many souvenir shops, embroidery, leather-work emerged. Most of these shops are located on the ground floors of the residents' houses.
The old town is a labyrinth of small, irregular, wood-scented, granite-paved streets with traditional mehanes (inns) serving fish and seafood and also the Balkan cuisine. Lots of taverns, cafés and hand-made workshops line over these narrow streets.
The entrance to the old town is also remarkable, through a gate that pierces the 8 m high and 100 m long old city wall and the medieval amphitheater.
The photos we took captured the architectural beauty of the city, the open landscapes towards Sunny Beach, Sveti Vlas and Elenite on one side and Burgas on the other side. Photos also highlight the colors of the sea and the sunset, the night lights, and the taverns.
Other leisure possibilities are offered by the boat trips across the sea to the surrounding resorts, or by the beaches on the shore, by the traditional restaurants with their own special menus, by the amusement park or the circus situated in the new town. On St Mary's Day, the 15th of August, the municipality organizes a town celebration with fireworks, light shows and several traditional music concerts.
As for accommodation, there are plenty of choices, both in the old and new part of the city. We recommend few places to stay in the old part of the town, for its bohemian air and the quiet that settles in the evening: St. Nikola's, Panorama Blue, St. John's and last but not least the St. George Hotel, where we stayed most of the time with our welcoming hosts George and Tony.
Nessebar is certainly a beautiful holiday destination for all travelers.
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